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Just
as piloting an ocean-going cargo ship differs from paddling
a canoe, so driving a tractor-trailer rig to haul a
massive bulldozer or excavator differs from driving
the family car.
By
George Leposky
At sea or
on the highway, the sheer size and weight of the larger
conveyance limit its maneuverability. It cant
start or stop as fast, and it requires a much wider
turning radius. Also, in each case, the operator must
deal with issues of cargo securementto prevent
containers from falling off a ships deck, or a
bulldozer from falling off a trailer.
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PHOTO:
MAC Trailer Mfg.
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Like a ships
captain, the driver of a big rig for hauling heavy construction
equipment must receive proper training and obtain a
special license. Licensure demonstrates that the individual
has met a government agencys minimum standards
of qualification to operate the conveyancebut
a license alone is no substitute for experience.
Ive
had just three drivers over the past 25 years for my
low-bed trailer, says Warren Gomes Jr., vice president
of Warren E. Gomes Excavating Inc., in Rio Vista, CA.
You get surprises when you put guys into a low-bed
who dont regularly drive it. The more experienced
they are, the fewer surprises there will be. They have
an intuitive knowledge of weights and heights, how the
truck pulls and how the trailer reacts.
Gomes emphasizes,
though, that even an experienced driver can run into
problems if he is driving an inappropriate rig. The
truck and trailer must be right for each other.
Gomes has
two low-bed trailers, an eight-wheeler from Kalyn Siebert
of Gatesville, TX, a subsidiary of Heil Trailer International;
and a 16-wheeler from Harley Murray Inc., in Stockton,
CA, which does business as Murray Trailers and Murray
Trucking. The firm initially built pads for natural-gas
wells, but now digs trenches and installs storm-sewer
and water pipes for housing developments. When Gomes
began hauling a 75,000-pound excavator that exceeds
the Sieberts legal weight limit, he purchased
the larger trailer.
When
we went to the 16-tire low-bed, we needed a specific
truck to pull it, to take advantage of the load advantage,
he says. The two have got to be compatible. You
cant just buy a new low-bed and hook it up behind
your old truck if the truck isnt rated to pull
the low-bed.
Having
a trailer you can haul 44 tons on doesnt help
you much without the right truck. We need to put up
to 20,000 pounds on the front axle of the truck, and
we need the right size rear end and wheelbase. Just
by having the wrong front axle, we could lose up to
8,000 pounds of payload. We also had to buy the trailer
with a 10-foot gooseneck so it would slide up farther
on the truck and keep the rig level.
Loading
and Unloading
Some
heavy-equipment trailers load from the front, others
from the rear. Each design has its proponents. We
dont do rear loading at all, says Scott
Armstrong, maintenance supervisor at Arcon Construction
Co. Inc., in Harris, MN. Arcon works on underground
sewer and water lines in Minnesota and Wisconsin, and
hauls nine Caterpillar backhoes ranging in weight from
115,000 pounds to 145,000 pounds.
We
use trailers with hydraulic detachable goosenecks,
Armstrong says. You dump the air in the suspension,
set the front of the trailer down with its detachable
neck, and drive away. Then you flip down the two folding
loading ramps and walk the machines on from the front
of the trailer.
H&R Paving
Inc., in Miami, FL, owns about 80 pieces of heavy equipment.
Raul Gonzalez, the firms president, says its pavers
and rollers typically go up and down ramps at the rear
of a trailer, but a 25-ton milling machine loads onto
the front of a low-bed trailer with a detachable gooseneck.
Brian Weseman,
president of Towmaster Trailers Inc., in Litchfield,
MN, recommends using an angle-iron beavertail to gain
maximum traction while loading. A wood beavertail
tends to be more slippery, he says. Bulldozers,
excavators, and rubber-tired backhoes will get far superior
traction on an angle-iron beavertail than on a wood
beavertail or ramp, but you need wood if you have a
roller. A smooth roller wont climb an angle-iron
beavertail.
Driving heavy
construction equipment on and off a trailer can be a
delicate operation, especially when the terrain isnt
level and flat. Sometimes a site is so uneven that an
adjacent roadway must be commandeered for loading and
unloading, despite the disruption of traffic.
When
youre loading and unloading, a major concern is
to make sure youre not doing it on a side hill,
cautions Weseman. Try to minimize the side angle
so the equipment doesnt do the crappie flop---tip
over sideways like a fish.
Loading and
unloading in wet, muddy conditions causes other concerns.
The softer the ground, the farther into it your
trailer is liable to sink, Armstrong notes.
Noise during
the unloading process also can bring grief to a driver.
In cities with noise ordinances prohibiting nocturnal
construction noise, delivery of a large piece of equipment
outside the permitted hours can prompt complaints and
attract the police.
Tie-Down
and Stowage
The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration
(FMCSA) regulations make the driver of a commercial
vehicle responsible for tying down its load and stowing
any auxiliary gear so nothing shifts or falls off the
truck en route.
The regulations
specify in considerable detail how to accomplish this
for various kinds of loads, including heavy equipment
(weighing more than 10,000 pounds) with wheels or crawler
tracks. Such equipment must be restrained from movement
in any direction using at least four tiedowns, each
attached as near as possible to the front and rear of
the vehicle.
Before tiedown,
hydraulic shovels and other accessory equipment must
be completely lowered and secured to the vehicle, and
articulated vehicles must be restrained so they wont
move around in transit.
Tie-down
is the thing that scares me the most, says
Gonzalez. I tell my people to secure the equipment
good before they leave, and inspect it to make sure
its really tight. If you drop one of those pieces
of equipment, youve got problems. All it takes
is for somebody to forget a chain, and youll have
a big catastrophe.
When
we pull equipment out of our own yard, more than one
person looks at it. On a job site, when were loading
to bring the equipment back again, we have to rely on
the driver doing his job.
The FMCSA
regulations list the standards to which steel strapping,
chain, webbing, wire rope, and cordage must conform.
Knots arent allowed; tie-downs must be secured
in some other manner so they wont come loose during
the haul. On a trailer equipped with rub rails, the
tie-downs must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever
practicable. Edge protection is required to prevent
abrasion, cutting, and crushing where a tie-down touches
the cargo.
The regulations
also prohibit the use of damaged or weakened securement
devices. Even without such official prompting, a wise
driver will always examine tie-down devices for fatigue,
damage, cracks, or missing parts; check safety chains
and hooks for wear; and verify the tightness of all
hanger bolts, deck bolts, and U-bolts before moving
a load.
Tires
and Wheel Lug Nuts
Keep a tires pressure near the upper limit
of its recommended range. This will allow the tire to
carry more weight and run cooler than an under-inflated
tire. Weseman blames 90% of all tire failure on lack
of inflation. If inflation is correct, he says,
tires should serve well if the vehicles wheels
are properly aligned. If you jump a curb or hit
a hard object, you can knock the wheels out of alignment,
so this should be checked periodically, he recommends.
Check
your tire pressures weekly, advises the Towmaster
Trailers Inc., Web site. Tires can seep a couple
of pounds of air pressure a week. The number one cause
of tire failure is improper inflation. It can also cause
your trailer to dog track or sway. Pressure should be
checked while the tire is cold before operation. Also
check for tire wear and wear patterns. Once a pattern
has been established its almost impossible to
stop. Its important to catch it before it becomes
established.
Also check
a trailers lug nuts often and, when necessary,
tighten them to the proper torque. Wheel lug nuts
should be checked and re-torqued after the first 10
miles, 25 miles, and again at 50 miles, according
to the Towmaster Web site. Follow this procedure
every time a wheel is removed. If the wheel has been
run with loose lug nuts, it will wallow out the holes
where the studs come through and the only fix for this
is a new wheel.
Other
Pre-Hauling Preparations
Here is a checklist of other safety measures a driver
should take after tie-down and before driving off.
ð Secure
all loading ramps and stow all chock blocks, wedges,
and other restraints.
ð Make sure the jack stand is up and is in good condition.
If it wears out or develops a kink, have it replaced
as soon as possible.
ð Check the hitch before each trip for signs of wear
and for proper lubrication. After attaching the trailer
to the truck, check the locking mechanism to ensure
that it is attached correctly and completely.
ð Check all connections, including the electrical plug,
the breakaway switch for electric brakes, and all lighting
connections.
ð Inspect the wiring, clean it regularly, and tuck it
away in a protected position. Contributors to wiring
failure include driving on gravel roads---where stones
and grit pepper the coating and insulation---and driving
in winter on roads where sand and salt have been spread.
Especially in winter, drivers should ask their mechanic
to pressure-wash frequently underneath their truck and
trailer to remove corrosive salts. Also, to help combat
corrosion, spray all plugs and connections with penetrating
fluid or WD-40.
ð Check all of the lights to make sure they work. Trouble-shoot
and fix any that are not working.
ð Check the brakes.
ð Check the charge on the battery for the electric break-away
braking system. If the battery isnt fully charged,
it could freeze in winter and become useless. It should
be recharged every three months.
ð Attach the break-away switch cable to its own anchor
and check to ensure that it has the correct amount of
play.
Drive
Slow and Easy
Soon after beginning his or her journey, a wise
driver will stop a short distance down the road to make
sure that the load is secure and all tie-downs are tight,
and then check the load again at regular intervals.
The FMCSA regulations require the driver to inspect
cargo and securement devices en route and make any necessary
adjustments to keep the cargo from shifting or falling
off. Such inspections must be performed within the first
50 miles after beginning a trip, and again after three
hours or 150 miles of driving, or a change in the drivers
duty status, whichever occurs first.
Once underway,
drivers of these large rigs need a different perspective
on highway conditions than the average motorist. Gonzalez
wants his drivers to watch for and be sensitive to road
conditions ahead.
With
low-beds, he says, you have to be very careful
not to buy the very low ones. They have such a low profile
that they hit the pavement sometimes when theres
a dip in the road, or they hit the ground and get stuck
when they go over a curb. You buy low-beds because they
are easy to load the equipment onto, but with deficiencies
in the road, they cause problems.
Low-beds
constructed with protruding metal underneath also have
the potential to catch on railroad tracks. A driver
hauling such a trailer should be aware of this risk.
Gonzalez
encourages his drivers to limit their speed, for increased
safety and longer brake life, even if they get traffic
tickets for going too slow on expressways where the
minimum speed is 40 mph. Id rather have
a ticket for going too slow than for going too fast,
he says.
Drivers must
be alert for the unpredictable actions of other motorists.
Gomes recounts an incident in which a car pulled out
in front of a driver hauling an empty low-bed trailer.
The driver swerved to the side to avoid hitting
the car, and the low-bed came to a stop spanning a canal
beside the road. We unhooked the truck, brought in a
crane, pulled the low-bed up, and set it on the road.
The low-bed was fine.
Weseman urges
drivers to be sensitive to clearance issues. Avoid
surprises, he advises. Know what your overall
height is, and make sure you can clear underneath bridges.
Just because a bridge is marked at a certain height
doesnt mean its actually that high. A road
crew may have come through with another layer of tar,
so now that bridge marked 13 feet, 6 inches, is actually
13 feet, 2 inches.
Understand
Antilock Brakes
Gomes describes antilock brakes as the biggest
safety factor in the last five years. A computerized
antilock braking system (ABS) keeps a vehicles
wheels from locking up during hard braking. ABS activates
when sensors detect an impending lockup, and automatically
reduces the braking pressure to a safe level to help
the driver keep the vehicle under control---but ABS
doesnt shorten a vehicles stopping distance,
increase its ability to stop, or compensate for worn
or poorly maintained brakes.
The US Department
of Transportation has required ABS on truck tractors
with air brakes built since March 1, 1997; on trailers
built on or after March 1, 1998; and on hydraulically
braked trucks built since March 1, 1999. Some older
vehicles have been retrofitted with ABS.
To determine
whether a vehicle has ABS, look for a yellow ABS malfunction
lamp on the trucks instrument panel and on the
left front or rear corner of the trailer. (If youre
pulling an older trailer that lacks an ABS lamp, look
underneath the trailer to see if wheel speed sensor
wires run from the back of the brakes to an electronic
control unit.)
The ABS malfunction
lamp may flicker at start-up for a bulb check, or stay
on until the truck speed exceeds 5 mph. If it remains
on after that, the system may not be working at every
ABS-equipped wheel. Under those circumstances, the brakes
will continue to function under normal driving conditions,
but the ABS should be serviced as soon as possible.
The Trucking
Research Institute and the Federal Highway Administrations
Office of Motor Carrier and Highway Safety have published
a handy explanatory booklet, Truck Drivers Guide to
Antilock Braking Systems (available online at www.fmcsa.dot.gov/español/english/pdfs/abs_book.htm).
The booklet
explains that if a rig has ABS on all axles, the driver
can apply the brakes fully in an emergency stop. Otherwise,
it says, When only the tractor has ABS, you should
be able to maintain steering control and there is less
chance of jackknifing. BUT keep your eye on the trailer
and let up on the brakes (if you can safely do so) if
it begins to swing out.
When
only the trailer has ABS, the trailer is less likely
to swing out, but if you lose steering control or start
a tractor jackknife, let up on the brakes (if you can
safely do so) until you gain control.
For older
vehicles without antilock brakes, the risk of brakes
locking up is greatest when the rig has a light load
or is empty, and the consequences can be costly even
if no accident results. Any time you get in a
lightened load situation, lock an axle, and slide the
tires, you go out of compliance and have to change the
tires, Gomes explains. That can cost $200
to $285 a tire, and you lose eight of them at a time.
Communication
Helps, Too
Even the most highly skilled and reliable drivers may
sometimes err, by picking up the wrong piece of construction
equipment, delivering it to the wrong place, or arriving
at the wrong time. Such errors typically result from
communication gaps---either the hauler misunderstanding
the contractors instructions or the driver misinterpreting
his or her employers instructions.
To avoid
such surprises, a wise driver will request the details
of each assignment in writing, along with documentation
of any permits the job may require. Such paperwork helps
to ensure that the driver will do the right thing in
the right place at the right time, and that any permitting
questions the authorities raise en route can be resolved
quickly.
Miami-based
construction-industry writer George Leposky is a frequent
contributor to Forester Publications.
MSW
- September/October 2005
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